Yeodam Bueok
A Korean home table set with bibimbap, rice, soup and a spread of small side dishes

Hansik · Home Kitchen

Korean Cooking Without Vegetable Oil

Sesame oil, perilla oil, rice, and doenjang left to ferment on its own time. The way Korean tables were built long before industrial vegetable oil ever reached a home stove.

Three Rules In This Kitchen

참기름 finishes. 들기름 carries the flavor. Vegetable oil never touches the pan.

Toasted sesame oil goes in at the very end, for aroma alone. Cold-pressed perilla oil, deulgireum, carries the deep, grassy backbone of a good braise or namul. Refined, flavorless seed oil has no place on this stove, not for a quick fry and not for a slow one.

The Index

Six Recipes, Cooked The Old Way

Ordered the way a home cook actually reaches for them: a grilled meat, a pan-seared fish, a noodle dish built from vegetables, a bubbling stew, a griddled pancake, and something sweet to close the meal.

  1. Bulgogi plated with grains and greens

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 lb (700g) ribeye or sirloin, sliced paper thin
    • 1 Asian pear, grated
    • 4 cloves garlic, minced
    • 1 thumb ginger, grated
    • 1/3 cup soy sauce
    • 2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
    • 2 tbsp brown sugar
    • 1 small onion, sliced thin
    • 3 scallions, cut into 2 inch lengths
    • 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
    • 1 tbsp beef tallow or lard, for the pan

    Method

    1. Grate the pear into a bowl and stir in garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and brown sugar until the sugar dissolves.
    2. Add the sliced beef, turning to coat every piece, and let it rest in the refrigerator at least 2 hours.
    3. Heat a heavy skillet over high heat and add the tallow or lard once it shimmers.
    4. Lift the beef from the marinade, letting the excess drip off, and lay it in a single layer without crowding the pan.
    5. Sear 1 to 2 minutes per side until the edges char, working in batches.
    6. Toss in the onion and scallions for the last minute so they soften but keep some bite.
    7. Scatter with sesame seeds and serve straight from the pan with warm rice.
  2. Grilled mackerel fillets with crisp golden skin

    Ingredients

    • 2 mackerel fillets, skin on
    • 1 tsp coarse sea salt
    • 2 tbsp perilla oil (deulgireum)
    • 1 tbsp rice flour, for dusting
    • 1 clove garlic, grated
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 lemon, cut into wedges
    • 2 scallions, thinly sliced
    • 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds, for finishing
    • Steamed rice, to serve

    Method

    1. Pat the mackerel completely dry, salt both sides, and let it sit uncovered for 15 minutes.
    2. Blot dry again and dust the skin lightly with rice flour, shaking off the excess.
    3. Warm the perilla oil in a heavy pan over medium high heat until it shimmers.
    4. Lay the fillets skin side down, pressing gently for the first 30 seconds so the skin stays flat.
    5. Cook undisturbed 3 to 4 minutes, then flip and cook the flesh side 1 to 2 minutes more.
    6. Swirl garlic and ginger through the pan juices for the last 30 seconds.
    7. Scatter with scallions and sesame seeds, and serve hot with rice and a lemon wedge.
  3. Glass noodles with vegetables in a bowl

    Ingredients

    • 8 oz (225g) sweet potato glass noodles (dangmyeon)
    • 1 carrot, julienned
    • 1 zucchini, julienned
    • 4 oz (110g) shiitake mushrooms, sliced
    • 1 red bell pepper, julienned
    • 1 small onion, sliced thin
    • 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil, divided
    • 3 tbsp soy sauce
    • 2 tbsp brown sugar
    • 2 cloves garlic, minced
    • 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds

    Method

    1. Soak the noodles in warm water 30 minutes until pliable, then boil 5 to 6 minutes and drain.
    2. Toss the hot noodles with a tablespoon of sesame oil and a splash of soy sauce so they do not clump.
    3. Sear the carrot, zucchini, mushrooms, pepper and onion separately in a hot pan with a little sesame oil, salting each lightly.
    4. Whisk the remaining soy sauce, brown sugar and garlic into a small bowl to make the sauce.
    5. Return the noodles to the pan, add the sauce, and toss over medium heat 2 minutes.
    6. Fold the vegetables back in and toss until evenly distributed.
    7. Finish with the remaining sesame oil and sesame seeds, and serve warm or at room temperature.
  4. Doenjang jjigae simmering with tofu and scallions

    Ingredients

    • 3 tbsp doenjang (fermented soybean paste)
    • 4 cups water or anchovy stock
    • 1 block soft tofu, cubed
    • 1 zucchini, diced
    • 1 potato, diced
    • 1/2 onion, sliced
    • 2 scallions, cut into rounds
    • 1 to 2 green chilies, sliced
    • 2 cloves garlic, minced
    • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil

    Method

    1. Bring the water or anchovy stock to a simmer in a heavy pot.
    2. Whisk the doenjang into a ladle of the hot broth until smooth, then stir it back into the pot.
    3. Add the potato and onion first and simmer 8 minutes until the potato softens.
    4. Add the zucchini and garlic and simmer another 5 minutes.
    5. Slide in the tofu gently so it holds its shape and simmer 3 more minutes.
    6. Stir in the sesame oil and scatter the scallions and chilies over the top.
    7. Ladle into bowls straight from the pot, bubbling, with a side of warm rice.
  5. Crisp scallion pancake being lifted from the pan

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup rice flour
    • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
    • 1 cup cold water
    • 1 egg
    • 1 bunch scallions, cut into 3 inch lengths
    • 1 small carrot, julienned (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp lard or coconut oil, for frying
    • 2 tbsp soy sauce, for dipping
    • 1 tbsp rice vinegar, for dipping

    Method

    1. Whisk the rice flour, all-purpose flour, salt and cold water into a thin batter, then stir in the egg.
    2. Lay the scallions in a heavy skillet in a single tight layer, adding the carrot if using.
    3. Pour the batter over the scallions, just enough to coat and bind them.
    4. Heat the lard or coconut oil in a pan until it shimmers, then slide the pancake in.
    5. Press flat with a spatula and fry undisturbed 4 to 5 minutes until deep golden underneath.
    6. Flip carefully and fry the second side 3 to 4 minutes, adding a little more fat around the edges if needed.
    7. Slice into wedges and serve hot with soy sauce and rice vinegar for dipping.
  6. Hotteok frying on a street griddle

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups all-purpose flour
    • 1/2 cup glutinous rice flour
    • 1 tsp instant yeast
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 cup warm milk or water
    • 2/3 cup brown sugar
    • 1 tbsp ground cinnamon
    • 1/3 cup chopped peanuts or walnuts
    • Coconut oil, for frying

    Method

    1. Stir the yeast and sugar into the warm milk and let sit 5 minutes until foamy.
    2. Mix the flours and salt in a large bowl, pour in the yeast mixture, and stir into a soft, sticky dough.
    3. Cover and let the dough rise in a warm spot about an hour, until doubled.
    4. Stir together the brown sugar, cinnamon and chopped nuts for the filling.
    5. With oiled hands, flatten a portion of dough, spoon in filling, and pinch the edges into a sealed ball.
    6. Heat coconut oil in a pan, lower the ball in seam side down, and press flat once the bottom sets.
    7. Fry 2 to 3 minutes per side until deep golden, then rest briefly before serving warm.

Our Kitchen

Small Techniques, Kept On Purpose

Yeodam Bueok started as a way to write down the small, unglamorous techniques that make Korean home cooking taste the way it should: how long to salt a mackerel before it sears clean, why doenjang wants a slow simmer instead of a hard boil, how a scallion pancake stays crisp instead of turning soft under its own steam.

None of it depends on a specialty pantry. It depends on toasted sesame oil and cold-pressed perilla oil in place of a jug of neutral vegetable oil, on patience with fermentation, and on cooking a dish the way it was cooked before shortcuts became the default. That is the only rule we keep in this kitchen, and the only one we ask a reader to keep too.

"A good bowl of doenjang-jjigae does not hurry. Neither should the oil you cook it in."